Imsouane, Surf Tourism & Neo-Colonialism
The original Berber village of Imsouane, home to many locals, being demolished as surf tourists stroll by following their morning surf.
January of this year, Tasblast, the historical center and original Berber village of Imsouane, alongside low-income shelters, and small businesses in the town center were demolished to make way for the development of a large resort. Locals were given 24 hours notice to evacuate before demolition began, and no support was provided for those displaced. The military arrived January 17th to issue the notice, the area’s electricity was then pulled leaving many without means of online communication before demolition began the next day.
I was in Morocco, staying an hour and a bit south of the village at the time, and had spent 10 days in Imsouane just before. I drove back up to Imsouane to witness and document the destruction. It’s taken me months to write about it, and I still feel stuck. I feel helpless and powerless when I think about it - the issues it embodies.
It was chaotic, people frantically clearing out their homes and businesses, attempting to save what they had. I remember feeling aghast, absolutely bewildered, and devastated, that this was the reality of modern times. I also felt guilty. Did my role as a tourist play a part in this?
How could a government knowingly displace its own with no support or thought given? How does greed and disconnection run this deep? And legally, how could this happen?
Upon speaking to locals I found that much of the land along the coastline falls under “Maritime Domain”, which can be defined as all areas and things of, on, under, relating to, or bordering on a sea, ocean, or other navigable waterway. This includes all maritime-related activities, infrastructure, and people.(https://www.lawinsider.com/dictionary/maritime-domain).
When indigenous people settled in the area of Imsouane and began their fisheries, there was nothing there, and they never gained legal ownership over the land. This was before the area was of any real value to the government, and so they were mostly undisturbed as they began to fish and settle in the area (aside from the one time the government demolished part of the village in the 70s, which seems to be standard government practice).
Tasblast (the original village) borders Cathedral bay and sits just north of the fishing port. The fishing port sits on an adjacent bay known simply as “The Bay”. Coincidentally, this protected bay where the fishermen set their port happens to be home to a world class, incredibly long, right hand wave. An influx of surf travelers through the 60s and 70s put the area on the map (at least for surfers), and the wave is now infamous, thanks to surf tourism and social media. As a result of surf tourism, the area has now become incredibly valuable. Which the government has decided to capitalize on, selling the rights of the land head just north of Cathedral bay to foreign development.
In order to “clean up” the area, the government ordered the evacuation and demolition of all infrastructure bordering Cathedral Bay, this included all homes and small local businesses situated in the area. Some of the demolished areas in the town center were not long-standing remnants of the original village, but were representative of the homes of more recently settled low-income locals.
In this action, I see the unfortunate effects of capitalist influence and the westernization of the area, and also the inextricable link between modern surf tourism and neo-colonialism.
Neo-colonialism can be described as, “a further development of capitalism that enables capitalist powers (both nations and corporations) to dominate subject nations through the operations of international capitalism rather than by means of direct rule.” (https://www.britannica.com/topic/neocolonialism)
A few weeks prior to the destruction that took place in Imsouane, the village of Tifnit, just a few hours south, suffered the same fate. And the now bustling Taghazout experienced the same years ago in order to support its ‘development’ as a tourist hotspot. All done under government orders and carried out by the military, to allow for an influx of capitalist rule at the potential detriment of vulnerable local populations.
So what happened to the displaced? I cannot say for sure, but while all was going on I walked through the village as it was being demolished and spoke to a local family, sitting and waiting, watching the destruction around them. They spoke Berber, Arabic, and some French. I speak minimal French, so in disjointed French I was able to gather that their attitude towards it all was, “This is just Morocco, this is just what happens, and the government doesn’t care.” Their plan was to go to the hills with nothing, and start over somewhere.
Around 150 people were displaced, with estimates of 30 businesses and 80 houses destroyed. (https://www.thenationalnews.com/mena/2024/02/09/morocco-imsouane-surfing-demolition/)
I often see a focus in surf culture and surf tourism on the importance of giving back, and many of the larger camps and resorts in Imsouane market themselves as sustainably-minded business. Claiming to be conscious of their environmental and social impact. I took note that during this destruction and eradication of the more vulnerable local population, the largest, highest-revenue grossing surf camps stayed silent on social media around what was happening in the town.
I don’t wish to slam anyone - but it could have been an incredible opportunity to band together, raise awareness, and some means of support for those being displaced. I see that lack of consideration and care as a dis-heartening and gross failure for those businesses.
It’s a double-edged sword. In many ways, surf tourism provides opportunity for locals. The influx of money, paying the way for infrastructure development, work, career, and travel opportunities. But surely it doesn’t have to come at the cost of the destruction and displacement of local culture, history, and livelihoods. How do we allow for progress and non-destructive growth supportive to all?
I cannot offer a solution to the issue, but I can offer reflection.
What is your relationship to surf travel and ‘development’? Are you cognoscente of your impact? Are you mindful of the places you visit, where your money goes, and who you support in your travels? The areas that you go and the places you stay?
What is the impact of this development? Who really holds the power in these situations? Who benefits, and who is harmed in the process?
Unfortunately, after witnessing this - I would be hard pressed to be convinced to go back to Imsouane. I cannot see much left other than the commodification, exploitation of the area, and eradication of the charming local culture, spirit, and local population. I think its a story that rings true for many surf destinations.
So, how can we move towards sustainable tourism? I think it starts with you and I dear reader. I think it begins with awareness, conscious thought, and action in regards to the places we travel and the businesses we choose to support.
I ask for us all to reflect.
What are we witnessing? What are we perpetuating?
